Turbo & Supercharger

[General Lee]

benarkah pemasangan turbo atau supercharger harus menurunkan kompresi?

yang berminat silahkan baca artikel ini.

Supercharger Basics and FAQ
The intent of this article is to help inform future owners and current owners of what logical steps to take in modifying a supercharged engine. I have used my own experience in developing this article and have complied groups of performance products to help one properly upgrade. I recommend that you read the articles on engine dynamics and exhaust flow, as these explain how many of the items I mention work. With that being said, enjoy.

Out of the Box: The easiest way to create power is to pressurize the intake, better known as forced induction.

One of the easiest ways to force feed an engine is to use of a supercharger. Jackson Racing (JR), a known name in the Honda and Mazda market, has put together a well-engineered supercharger kit that is 50 state smog legal, carrying a CARB certification. JR use a specially modified supercharger made by Eaton, to accomplish a gain of 40% power.

Out of the box, the supercharger kit (6 PIS) includes just about everything you need:
• New vacuum hoses, fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
• JR electronics
• M-45 or M-62 Eaton supercharger depending on application
• Intake manifold
• Alternator relocation bracket
• Double alternator pulley
• Supercharger belt and tensioner
• Along with throttle body and intake manifold gaskets.

A new fuel filter is required, but not included.

General hand tools and a good knowledge mechanical knowledge are needed to be successful.

Average install time for a professional is about 8~10 hours for a B18B engine and about 12~14 hours for a B18C engine. The kit is marketed as a "bolt-on" and a successful install can be accomplished over a weekend's time. Instructions are through and are detailed enough for the amateur mechanic, but expect a more realistic time of 20 to 28 hours if this is your first attempt at modifying your engine. Having a Helms Manuel is highly suggested, for any engine project.

One of the most general questions asked is "what else do I need." In the most simple terms, nothing additional is needed. It's very possible to operate on a stock kit with only dyno tuning and moderate timing setting. Most gear heads do seek further performance and reliability gains, so the following will help guide you in your decision.

Basic Setup: Even though the Jackson Racing Supercharger can operate with a high level of reliability, there are some aftermarket items not included in the kit that not only make the engine more reliable, but also support future power upgrades. Besides, who wants to be stock? The following items are suggested for safety and reliability.

* One heat range colder plug (NGK BCPR7ES)
* High-flow fuel pump (Walbro GS-342 or better)
* Cartech FMU (20005i or 2025 models)
* JR BTC or MSD 6BTM
* Boost and mechanical fuel pressure gauges
* Dyno tuning

Products, such as the Cartech, BTC, and fuel pump, were chosen to compliment the supercharger and add even more reliability. The Cartech FMU is far superior to the JR FPR (fuel pressure regulator) in many ways. The Cartech FMU is a rise rate fuel pressure regulator; similar to the one JR gives you with their kits. But that's where the similarity ends.

The Cartech 20005i or 2025 (the one you need for S/C engine) allows you to change the ramping, ratios, and allows one to tune larger injectors; these are all things that JR unit can't do.

Ramping: The JR unit does not increase fuel pressure until positive manifold pressure is reached; this is the area where tip-in detonation is common. Also, a "bog" can be felt when the JR unit makes a sudden change in fuel pressure, during this transition. The Cartech has a bleeder valve that can be adjusted to start raising fuel pressure as low as 10" mercury; this makes for a smooth transition to boost and lessens tip-in.

Ratios: The JR unit is set to a 5:1 ratio, meaning for every 1 LB of manifold pressure, fuel pressure will be raised 5LB. So on a stock (6LB) blower, the max fuel pressure should be (6x5=30 + 52(stock GS-R fuel pressure)= 82LB). But many of us see +100LB. why? The reason is the JR FPR makes adjustments based on manifold pressure, which can be higher than 6LB, due to restrictive a header/exhaust slowing the flow and causing the air to "clog up." So instead of the FPR seeing 6LB, it sees 8LB and bumps up fuel pressure an additional 10LB; too rich and robs power. The Cartech's ratios are adjustable and can be set as low as 1:1. On a dyno, several people note a 3.8~4.2:1 as making "good power;" these numbers will only mean something to your set-up and are not transferable to another's setup.

Tuning with bigger injectors: The JR FPR just can't do it. When used in conjunction with an AEM FPR/B&M FPR, the Cartech can dial in those fat injectors for a nice idle.
The fuel pressure gauges will allow the tuner to dial in fuel pressure. The JR BTC will allow for detonation control and give back what would be lost timing and power, for the low end. The fuel pump is self explanatory, as the stock pump just can't move the volume need ed. Changing to a copper plug, of one heat range colder (NGK BCPR7ES-11 stock #1095 for B-series engines) will also aid in detonation control and are cheaper on the wallet to replace. One of the most important aspects is dyno tuning; it is near impossible to extract power by "seat of the pants" tuning.


Bolt-on Power: Adding correct bolt-ons to extract more power.

* Everything included in the "General Setup"
* Short style intake
* Header
* Hi-flow cat
* Exhaust
* Adjustable cam sprockets
* Dyno tuning

This is the area where you can extract another 10~25 WHP, on top of your "General setup." The items listed are not name brand specific, due to the diversity of the products available. A short style intake produces the best power; these can be custom made with 3" exhaust pipe, modified AEM or Ice Man CAI systems, or purchased like the Comptech Ice Box. A high volume filter is also suggested, like K&N.

Two know power makers are the Hy Tech SC 4-1 with 3" collector or the Kamikaze 4-1. Both these headers have short primaries, which superchargers like. Even thought many Kamikaze users note that fitment is poor, the performance is a good bang for the buck. A trip to a muffler shop should resolve the fitment issues. The DC 4-2-1 will work, but will choke off power that could be released with the two mentioned. Expect to spend about $1300 US for the custom made Hy Tech and about $250 US for the Kamikaze.

A high flow cat will also open up "choked" power. Car Sound Cat is a very affordable choice. While I don't know who you'll buy your weld-in or bolt-in cat from, make sure you know which cat you are getting, what comes with the cat (gasket/doughnut), is it the proper length, do the bolt holes line up on the flanges and on OBD II cats where does the 2nd O2 sensor mount?

The choice for exhaust is debatable. One mainly wants a 2.5"~3" diameter piping. APEX'i N1, Thermal R&D, or even a custom Flowmaster (eck!) design would work. Hytech also makes an affordable system, which isn't as noisy as the mentioned.

Adjustable cam sprockets are area to tune cam timing and dial out overlap. Naturally aspirated engines, like Hondas, rely on valve overlap to fill the cylinders. At high rpms, there isn't much time between cycles, so the valves aren't open for very long. There isn't much time to get all that air into the cylinders. So cam designers keep the intake AND exhaust valves open at the same time. What they do is design the cam profiles so that the exhaust valves are still open when the intake valves open. Most of the burnt mixture from the previous cycle has traveled out the exhaust valve and is on its way out the cylinder head by this time. Having both valves open allows the intake gasses to be "pulled" into the cylinder due to the low-pressure area that the high velocity gasses flowing out the exhaust path are creating behind them. This works well until you pressurize the intake. When you do, instead of having the exhaust gasses "pull" the intake gasses in, because the intake side has much higher pressure than the exhaust side, the intake gasses just shoot on by out the exhaust valve when both intake and exhaust valves are open during overlap. The same thing that happens in an NA engine, but TOO MUCH so you actually lose unburnt air/fuel mixture out the tail pipe. And if it doesn't combust you lose power and your emissions suffer. When you've got supercharged boost you don't want or need as much overlap. All adjustable cam gears perform the same function, but have different options that set them apart. Brands differ by points of connection (more the better), lightweight material (less rotational mass = less parasitic drag), and etched degree markings (not the screen print crap) are all found on a "good" set of adjustable cam gears. With all these items in place, it's best to dyno tune the cam gears in place as the final modification. All the previous modifications affect the flow dynamics and tuning the cam gears lastly extracts the best possible gains.

Boost Upgrade: more air = more power.

* Items mentioned in "Bolt-on Setup"
* Smaller pulley or ENDYN Stepper pulley
* RC 310cc injectors
* AEM FPR
* Dyno tuning

Stock boost for the GSR is 6LB and 5.5LB for the "R." Eaton rates the blowers to produce power, until 10LB. Past 10LB, heat become excessive, detonation becomes prevalent, and power starts to fall off.

There are three ways to raise boost levels. Smaller blower nose pulleys, ENDYN stepper, and JR crank pulley.

The pulleys are not rated by boost levels, but rather diameters. Sock GSR pulley is 4" diameter. The 3.8" pulley produce about 8LB and the 3.6" produce close to 10LB. It's a good idea to keep these numbers in mind, to know if you receive the correct item. These pulleys can be purchased at JR and ENDYN. This pulley will bolt onto the blower's nose and replace the current pulley. To swap the pulley, the blower has to be removed and this is time consuming.

The JR crank pulley is similar to the CRV pulley modification, but cheaper. This pulley is slightly larger, causing the belt that drives both the alternator and blower to turn faster. JR does balance the pulley, but it lacks a harmonic balancer. This, much like the ENDYN stepper pulley, reduces belt slippage. The maximum duty cycle for injectors is 80%. Past 80%, the injectors tend to stick open or closed and no longer do their job. A larger set will allow the engine to run lower fuel pressure and have the ability to add more fuel. RC 310cc work very well. Be careful, the baseline fuel pressure will have to be lowered or you will foul plugs like no tomorrow.

To lower the baseline pressure, the AEM FPR does the trick. This unit is preferred because it has variable diameter fuel return fittings and is a direct replacement to the OE unit. Units like the B&M demand for the tuner to modify the OE regulator, which is time consuming, and in some cases difficult.

Once again, for best results... DYNO TUNE

Frequently Ask Questions: It is possible to go into a great discussion about these simple looking questions. Keep in mind, the answers given are the most direct

* What should I set my timing to?

The instructions suggest one to set the timing to 8~12 advance. With each engine being different and consuming different grades of fuel, there isn't a magic setting to make the most power without detonation. A conservative setting of 10 degrees advance is generally a safety area of timing tuning.

* I don't want to change exhaust or purchase the Hytech or Kamikaze, what should I do?

In the most simplest answer, learn to live with knowing you're not going to be able to make as much power as possible with your system. Life is sometimes cruel like that.

* I want to raise the boost past 10 PSI, what will this do?

Turbochargers and superchargers are both boost limited. The main difference is superchargers achieve their design loss much sooner. Eaton, the maker of the JR super charger, defines too much boost as being more than 10 PSI. After 10 PSI, thermal loss is thru the roof and the supercharger can damage itself.

* What's this Endyn upgrade I've read about?

Endyn attempted to market itself as "upgrading" the supercharger so that it could handle more than 10 PSI, but all known "upgraded" units have shown worse results than before. Endyn markets the upgrade as changing the geometry of the supercharger's scrolls, mild porting, and removing the "S" crook in the intake. In reality, Endyn removes the epoxy scroll coating, which increases blower temps, grinds the scrolls out of tolerance and basically ruins the blower. All this for a price of ~$2,000 US.

* Do I need to lower my compression, so I can boost more?

No. The price of lowering static compression is increasing maximum boost to overcome the static compression loss. Lower compression does allow more freeway for tuning mistakes, but that's where the train stops. If one did lower compression with a supercharger, the boost would need to be upgraded beyond the supercharger's limit, just so the motor would make as much power as before.

* Will a V-AFC help my fuel tuning?

No. These units modify the MAP signal, which is near limit in vacuum, as the MAP is placed before the supercharger. The MAP just reads A LOT of air going into the engine and the ECM doesn't have the fuel maps to adjust such in a precise manner. The V-AFC also is a RPM and load adjusting unit; it doesn't take into account for boost in any spectrum of the tuning. Many people love to band-aid their engine with these overpriced units, but it's their money.

* I want to use nitrous oxide (N20) with the supercharger. Is it possible?

Nitrous oxide offers great possibilities, but it must be done so in a logical manner. A wet injection method is a must, as the fuel system can not properly support the added fuel pressure on the system. Injecting behind the supercharger is stressed, as the temperature at which nitrous oxide is injected has been known to cause the scroll's coating to crack and be ingested by the motor. This simply requires have the intake manifold tapped. An ignition upgrade is also recommended.

* Do I need a Missing Link check valve, so the ECM doesn't "see" boost?

No. The MAP's location naturally allows for the unit to not read boost, as boost in created in the intake manifold.

* What cam should I choose to run with a supercharger?

High duration camshafts create power by increasing overlap. As mentioned before, overlap is FI's worst nightmare. That's not to say that all camshafts are worthless; Crower makes some for specific FI cars (Supra TT, 300ZX TT, and DSM turbos) and they work quite well. One should consult the makers and tuners for specific applications or custom setups At one time, there was a phase for of Type R owners changing to the GSR exhaust cam, in attempts to dramatically change the overlap; they didn't note any real gains, so I would consider the swap a wash. Just avoid JUN stage 3, Toda Spec B, ect. Currently, I would advise sticking with stock cams.

* Besides supercharger related items, what are other upgrades that will make my car faster?

Limited slip, stronger clutch, and motor mounts with drastically change the way your car will accelerate out of the turn and out of the hole. Upgrading a car shouldn't only focus on the engine, as it takes well matched parts for the engine and transmission to work together.

* I've got an auto transmission. How well will the transmission hold up?

I've had no experience with automatic transmissions. What little experience I have had with them isn't pretty. The torque converter, for starters, isn't properly matched with the newly generated torque. Some users report that the transmission will not correctly shift. As the cost of a Level Ten torque converter is close to that of a 5-speed swap, I would recommend changing to the manual transmission and kiss all of the automatic transmission woes good-bye. There seems to be a huge group of automatic transmission owners who don't want to let go of their non-performance geared transmissions; like I've said before, it's not my money.

* I've got a B18B non-VTEC and want a supercharger. How well will I perform against a stock GS-R/Type R?

The non-VTEC guys have it rough. For starters, they get a smaller blower. Second, their maximum RPM is limited. These blown, non-VTEC motors usually achieve a maximum of about 160~170 WHP @ 8 PSI. Considering the average Type R, in stock trim, can pull these kinds on numbers, it's not a black and white race. You will be bolting on about 40 WHP, so this isn't nothing to turn your nose to; it's still a great deal of power for a "bolt-on" product.

* So the non-VTEC motors get a smaller blower. Can I upgrade to the larger blower used on the GS-R/Type R?

You can, but you're not unlocking the power difference. The VTEC head naturally flows more CFM, than the non-VTEC. Adding more CFM than your engine can breath will only increase your intake air temps, as the engine will not be able to process the additional air.

* I bought a 6 PSI supercharger kit, but my boost gauge is telling me I'm boosting 8 PSI. Is something wrong?

Keep in mind, the diameter of the pulley(s) determine how fast the blower spins. Superchargers do not suffer from "boost creep," like turbochargers. With that being said, it's impossible for the blower to move more CFM without being driven faster. The reason some users state that they are "indicating" more boost is due to how inefficient their engine processes the extra air. Having a restrictive exhaust system will hinder how well each cylinder is expelled and filled. This restriction will cause for more air, in the intake manifold, to reside in the intake manifold and cause the boost gauge to indicate a high concentration of air. On engines with highly efficient exhaust systems, it's normal to indicate less boost pressure than the rating of the pulley.

* I have a '95 GS-R with 120,000 miles on the engine and transmission. I have done little or no maintenance to the car, for as long as I've owned the car, and the previous owner did God knows what to it. How well will my engine hold up to supercharging.

If you have a car with questionable maintenance, it's a good idea to bring the car up to spec, before adding more stress to the engine. While I do not know your specific engine history, it's best just to perform all the maintenance requirements, which are listed in the owner's manual. Also note, miles to not indicate motor condition as much as people believe. A compression check will yield individual cylinder compression and you should cross check those numbers with a Helms for maximum variance and nominal pressure.

* I have just enough money to buy the supercharger kit. I never intend to ever spend more money on my car, dyno tune, and I'm not mechanically inclined, so I'm never going to turn my own wrench. I've heard that the JR supercharger is maintenance free, so this sounds perfect for me, right?

No. If you never intend on doing any work yourself or allocating the funds to have the work performed for you or intend on properly tune the engine, I suggest you stay as close as stock as possible. Any from of FI has additional maintenance that needs to be performed. Having extra funds sent aside for a stronger clutch is also suggested.

* I read this (http://crx.honda-perf.org/horror/jrsc.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) and it seems like this guy really got screwed. How common is this experience?

Marc's experience is unique in several aspects. For one, I've only personally herd two cases of caster bean oil, the oil used to lubricate the supercharger, leaking from the unit. This isn't a high occurrence item, but is unfortunate. Second, Marc experienced poor customer service, which can put a nasty taste in anyone's mouth. Finally, I would never suggest any modifications for a D-series Honda engine, as these have to be the worst starting block for a performance intent. Is it really amazing that a FI D-series engine couldn't hold its own against a stock DOHC VTEC motor? Not really. This is the reason I've always suggested a motor swap as being a better choice for those D-block owners, as they each have about the same cost. Marc wrote that essay with intent of cutting into the sales of the JR market, due to his jaded experience.

Compression vs Boost Table Change Background Color
The numbers in the chart in blue indicate the safe zone of operation for a non-intercooled, Supercharged or Turboed vehicle running moderate timing with 92 pump octane gas and Stock Internals. (Reads Left to Right)

CR 0,2 psi 0,4 psi 0,6 psi 0,8 psi 10 psi 12 psi 14 psi 16 psi
7,0 : 1 8,0 8,9 9,9 10,8 11,8 12,7 13,6 14,5
7,5 : 1 8,5 9,5 10,6 11,6 12,6 13,6 14,6 15,7
8,0 : 1 9,1 10,2 11,3 12,4 13,4 14,5 15,6 16,7
8,5 : 1 9,7 10,8 12,0 13,1 14,3 15,4 16,6 17,8
9,0 : 1 10,2 11,4 12,7 13,9 15,1 16,3 17,6 18,8
9,5 : 1 10,8 12,1 13,4 14,7 16,0 17,3 18,5 19,8

[General Lee]

kepanjangan ya?

CR 0,2 psi 0,4 psi 0,6 psi 0,8 psi 10 psi 12 psi 14 psi 16 psi
7,0 : 1 8,0 8,9 9,9 10,8 11,8 12,7 13,6 14,5
7,5 : 1 8,5 9,5 10,6 11,6 12,6 13,6 14,6 15,7
8,0 : 1 9,1 10,2 11,3 12,4 13,4 14,5 15,6 16,7
8,5 : 1 9,7 10,8 12,0 13,1 14,3 15,4 16,6 17,8
9,0 : 1 10,2 11,4 12,7 13,9 15,1 16,3 17,6 18,8
9,5 : 1 10,8 12,1 13,4 14,7 16,0 17,3 18,5 19,8

[dhemilencok]

intinyaa???

[iphoer]

Om jenderal, bisa dibuat dgn bahasa grandcivic? hehe...
Maksudna dipersingkat gt.. thanks ya.

[meneer]

mas jendral ijo...translate in jowo plizzzzz



ngelu mode :ON

[General Lee]

he, he, he aku jg gak ngerti semua.

selama ini pemasangan turbo selalu bilang kudu nurunin kompresi sehingga budgetnya besar. padahal tidak demikian.
pemakaian turbo atau supercharger bisa menggunakan kompresi std (sedang) di atas 9:1 dengan catatan boostnya kecil.
umumnya boost menggunakan satuan bar. biasanya minimum adalah 0,5 bar (sekitar 7 psi 1 bar = 14 psi-an lebih dikit.)
sebenarnya bisa menggunakan boost kecil sekitar 1-2 psi saja.
nah, kebanyakan mekanik yang tukang pasang turbo itu selalu bilang kalau boost kecil gak ada efeknya. tuh salah lagi.

boost turbo selain sebagai forced induction ke in take juga diperuntukan untuk mengurangi turunnya tekanan sebelum intake.
di boks udara saat idle saja tekanannya bisa di bawah tekanan atmosfir.
dengan adanya boost dari turbo atau supercharger berkurangnya tekanan tersebut bisa dikurangi. tenaga pun naik

gitu mungkin intinya. tahu deh kalau emang ada guru bhs ingris teknik yang lebih jago.

[saitama]

waaaahh aku curiga deeehhhhh

abis ini liat deehh ada penampakan mengerikan di grand civic dot com

saya saudah melihat dengan mata kepala sendiri kalo kompresi 15 bisa di pasang turbo / supercharge

ntar kalo ada yang penasaran silahkan tunggu aja yaaaa penampakannya

om meneerr kapan kebengkeeeell

kangen mode = on

[meneer]

waaaahh aku curiga deeehhhhh

abis ini liat deehh ada penampakan mengerikan di grand civic dot com

saya saudah melihat dengan mata kepala sendiri kalo kompresi 15 bisa di pasang turbo / supercharge

ntar kalo ada yang penasaran silahkan tunggu aja yaaaa penampakannya

om meneerr kapan kebengkeeeell

kangen mode = on

sebentar om angga...masi aga sedikit sibuk di kantor,ndak bisa ninggal2
ntar mesti tak telp kalo mau maen ksono ;)

[Wa_oNe]

waaaahh aku curiga deeehhhhh

abis ini liat deehh ada penampakan mengerikan di grand civic dot com

saya saudah melihat dengan mata kepala sendiri kalo kompresi 15 bisa di pasang turbo / supercharge

ntar kalo ada yang penasaran silahkan tunggu aja yaaaa penampakannya

om meneerr kapan kebengkeeeell

kangen mode = on

hmmmmmm....
patut dicurigai .... ada apa diantara Om sai dan nyah meneer



kaburrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[meneer]

hmmmmmm....
patut dicurigai .... ada apa diantara Om sai dan nyah meneer



kaburrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

hus...hus